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Wait, you 16-18 table NL2 and have a red line like that? What? Thats... crazy.

On December 27 2009 13:42 Chewits wrote: Wait, you 16-18 table NL2 and have a red line like that? What? Thats... crazy.

Completely standard and I had the same redline at NL2 FR.

Just play super tight and cbet 100%of the time, people play fit or fold

first of all gz on you red line on the avatar thing, i just saw the movie yesterday and in my view it's just awesome from the technical view, but plot wise not much above average though there are some nice ideas involved

On December 27 2009 13:47 LemOn[5thF] wrote: Show nested quote + On December 27 2009 13:42 Chewits wrote: Wait, you 16-18 table NL2 and have a red line like that? What? Thats... crazy. Completely standard and I had the same redline at NL2 FR. Just play super tight and cbet 100%of the time, people play fit or fold

Something along those lines, haha. I get wary when I get 4 callers though. Usually means a lot of pocket pairs and someone hit a set.

Dam, why can't NL50 be like that lol

On December 27 2009 14:00 Chewits wrote: Dam, why can't NL50 be like that lol

Because people don't play fit or fold thats why.

On December 27 2009 13:47 LemOn[5thF] wrote: Show nested quote + On December 27 2009 13:42 Chewits wrote: Wait, you 16-18 table NL2 and have a red line like that? What? Thats... crazy. Completely standard and I had the same redline at NL2 FR. Just play super tight and cbet 100%of the time, people play fit or fold

But I'm not super nitty =(

and Lol. I like the parts where your redline is higher than your greenline. xD

On December 27 2009 13:47 Thall wrote: first of all gz on you red line on the avatar thing, i just saw the movie yesterday and in my view it's just awesome from the technical view, but plot wise not much above average though there are some nice ideas involved

haha. I know a few people who would sell their firstborn child to star in that movie.


Anyone have any answers to the questions I posed?

It looks like playing nittier is working for your blue line. 15/10 is fairly nitty, you can probably afford to open up more on the button and cutoff to steal if you have nitty players on your left. Most of the time with players of under 20VPIP on your left you can steal their blinds every orbit and they won't play back at you unless they have a hand. But since you are playing so many tables, it might be easier to just play a little bit tighter like you are.

Fish come in different types but the most prevalent and profitable fish are high VPIP/low PFR (over 30/under 5). These fish are also usually giant calling stations when they any piece of the board, but will fold to your cbets every time if they miss. I don't know about higher stakes but at these stakes the decent players will usually be under 28 VPIP and have a PFR of over 2/3rd of their VPIP. Anyone playing a tightish game isn't a complete fish but anyone with under 10 VPIP way too tight and is basically playing premium hands and set mining only. Download pokerstove and you can play around with the preflop hand ranges to see what kind of cards each VPIP% represents.

Aggression is also an important stat. Low aggression means a passive player. Fish are usually very passive and their usual line with any hand is check/call or sometimes check/fold if they have nothing. Players with aggressions of under 1 only bet/raise with a hand. Decent players will have an aggression of 2-3ish. Aggression of over 5 or 6 means they are making a lot of bluffs.

Be really careful with stats though, when you only have a small sample, don't rely on them too much because they can give you the wrong picture of a player. Once you get 40 or 50 hands on a player their VPIP/PFR is usually pretty representative of their playstyle.

But you've already passed me so maybe you should be giving me advice! I only 8 table right now, what's your setup like for 16-18?

I think he's playing fr, not 6m, 15/10 is fine

Phrenik: Cool ideas! Definitely checking out what Pokerstove is/does. Thanks for the general indication of VPIP/PFR and their correlating styles. As for stealing blinds, I do that if I have a playable hand on the button. I find it definitely helps with BB/100 haha.

When I started with 10, I played not-so-tight so a lot of action kept coming around to me in FR. As I shifted to more tables I noticed that I naturally started tightening my starting requirements and stopped playing a lot of hands UTG (like KTs). I just play with the natural setup as I open then and make my decisions as they pop up. I take a quick look around at my position, who's acted, what the pot is, what the opponents' stack sizes are, and act accordingly. (usually takes a second or two a table.) Occasionally I face a decision where I need to go through it a bit, so I hit time and finish the other tables first and then go back.